Bike Maintenance

A mini pump is one of the most critical pieces of gear for a cyclist. The portable nature of a mini pump makes it a great tool to keep in your pack or saddlebag, so you’re always prepared for a flat tire. 

There are many different mini pumps on the market, and it can be hard to decide which one is right for you. 

The best bicycling minipump is the PRO BIKE TOOL Mini Bike Pump Classic Edition. It can be used for both Presta and Schrader valves, doesn’t require much exertion during pumping, and has a decent pressure capacity of up to 100 PSI (689.4 kPa). What’s more, it doesn’t break the bank either. 

For more detailed information and reviews of the mini pumps we’ve listed, be sure to check out our bicycling mini pump buying guide below.

Best Bicycle Mini Pumps Reviewed

1. PRO BIKE TOOL Mini Bike Pump Classic Edition

The Pro Bike Tool is a great choice for your first mini pump. It’s an inexpensive hand pump that can be used on both Schrader and Presta valves. 

Moreover, with a high pressure capacity of up to 100 PSI (689.4 kPa) per 6.9 bars, you won’t have to pump as much to get the desired pressure. 

You’ll also love how lightweight and compact this mini pump is. Weighing only 4 ounces (113 g), and with a length of only 7.4 inches (19 cm), it can easily fit in a small saddle bag or backpack. 

Despite its compact nature, this pump is built to last. It features CNC machined aluminum alloy construction, resistant to both fatigue and corrosion. 

The pump also has a long hose that can be flipped in either direction, making it excellent for reaching tight spaces. 

All in all, the Pro Bike Tool mini pump is a great value for money and perfect for anyone looking for an affordable, lightweight, and durable mini pump. 

2. BV Portable Frame Pump

The BV Portable Frame Pump is an excellent option for those on a budget. Nonetheless, its budget-friendliness doesn’t mean this mini pump is deficient in quality. The BV Portable Frame Pump can pump up to 120 PSI (827 kPa), which is more than enough for a bike tire.

It also features a switch that easily switches between Presta and Schrader valves. All you have to do is twist the head of the pump. The head will automatically lock itself onto either Presta or Schrader valves. 

Plus, this bike pump weighs only 3.4 ounces (96 g) and features a compact design, so it doesn’t take up too much room. What’s more, you can also use it to inflate sport balls and pool floats, making it a versatile multi-use product. 

For those looking for an affordable bike pump that’s also lightweight and reliable, the BV Portable Frame Pump is a good option. 

3. Vibrelli Mini Bike Pump & Glueless Puncture Repair Kit

The Vibrelli mini bike pump is another versatile pump that works on both Presta and Schrader valves. This pump also has a maximum pressure capacity of 120 PSI (827 kPa), so it can inflate your tires quickly and efficiently. 

The pump features an inbuilt glueless puncture repair kit that will plug small holes in the inner tube of your bike tire. Therefore, you won’t be stranded with a flat tire in inconvenient locations. 

It’s also lightweight and compact; it only weighs 8.3 ounces (235 g) and measures 8.6 inches (22 cm) in length, making it easy to store and take with you on your cycling adventures. 

The Vibrelli mini bike pump also features a convenient Extendable Telescope design, allowing you to switch between high-pressure and high-volume inflation easily. 

For those in the market for an affordable, efficient mini bike pump with additional features, the Vibrelli Mini Bike Pump is a good option. 

4. Topeak Road Morph G Mini Pump

The Topeak Road Morph G Mini Pump is designed with the professionals in mind. Nonetheless, it would be an excellent investment for amateur cyclists, too.

For starters, it features an astounding 160 PSI (1,103 kPa) per 11 bars. This high maximum pressure will allow you to pump your tires to a high enough PSI so that you can ride on uneven terrain with ease. 

Secondly, the pump has a narrow barrel for better force distribution and is built from lightweight aluminum, making it a light and compact addition to any cyclist’s arsenal of tools. It also comes with a flexible hose that ensures the pump can reach even the most recessed valve—no more struggling to attach your pump to the tires! 

The Topeak Road Morph G Mini Pump also features an ergonomic T-type handle that makes it easy and comfortable to grip. Moreover, it fits Presta, Schrader, and Dunlop valves so that you can use it with any of your bikes. 

This mini pump only weighs 7.7 ounces (218 g) despite all its features, making it easy to carry with you on your rides. 

The Topeak Road Morph G Mini Pump is an excellent mini pump for professional cyclists and amateurs alike. It’s durable, lightweight, and has a high maximum pressure capacity. 

5. LEZYNE Micro Floor Drive Bicycle Hand Pump

If you don’t mind digging a little deeper into your pocket, the LEZYNE Micro Floor Drive Bicycle Hand Pump is an excellent option. 

This bike pump is designed for high performance and can achieve a maximum pressure of 160 PSI (1,103 kPa). This feature makes it the perfect pump for extreme cyclists or those who ride on rugged terrain. 

In addition, the LEZYNE Micro Floor Drive Bicycle Hand Pump is compatible with both Presta and Schrader valves, making it versatile enough to use on all your bikes. 

It’s also an extremely durable product, made from high-quality aluminum and steel. This bike pump won’t break or crack under pressure so, you can rely on it for a long time. 

Furthermore, the handle features a 24-inch (61 cm) rubber hose to allow you to easily reach the valves on your bike tire, even when the pump is at maximum capacity. 

Lastly, it’s lightweight, weighing 7 ounces (198 g) and measuring 12 inches (30 cm)  in length. 

With its high maximum pressure capacity, compact size, and a multitude of features, the LEZYNE Micro Floor Drive Bicycle Hand Pump is an excellent investment for any cyclist. 

Factors To Consider When Choosing the Best Mini Pump for Your Bicycle

Choosing the right mini bike pump can be a challenge, but it can be an easy decision with the right information. 

Here’s what you should consider when purchasing a mini pump.

Valve Compatibility

The first thing you need to consider is valve compatibility. Not all mini pumps are compatible with both Presta and Schrader valves, so it’s essential to double-check that the pump you choose can work with the valves on your bike tires. 

Maximum Pressure

The maximum pressure of a mini pump is critical to consider if you frequently ride on rugged terrain or need high pressure for your tires. Not all mini pumps are created equal, so be sure to check the maximum pressure capacity before purchasing. 

For instance, road or cross-country cyclists typically require higher tire pressures than beginners or downhill cyclists. 

Beginners will often be fine with a pump with a maximum pressure of around 50 PSI (344 kPa), but riders who need higher pressures should opt for mini pumps with higher maximums of up to 160 PSI (1,103 kPa), such as the Topeak Road Morph G Mini Pump. 

Volume, or How Many Pumps It Takes To Fill Your Tire

You should also consider the volume capacity of a mini pump. Pumps with high volumes allow you to fill your tire in fewer pumps, while pumps with smaller volumes may require more pumping to reach your desired pressure. 

For most cyclists, especially beginners or those just looking for a compact pump that they can use on the go, a small volume is sufficient. However, if you need larger volume capacities, you’ll want to find a mini pump that can hold more air. 

It will allow you to fill the tire with less effort. Note that volume and PSI are inversely proportional, meaning that as the volume capacity of a pump increases, the maximum PSI decreases. 

Weight and Size

The weight and size of a mini pump are important to consider if you want a pump that’s easy to transport. Some mini pumps are small and lightweight enough to fit in your pocket or attach to your bike frame with a clip, while others come with storage bags or attach to your bike with a bracket. 

Size and weight can also affect the pump’s ease of use. Therefore, consider if you want a larger (and heavier) pump that doesn’t require pumping as often, or one that’s smaller (and lighter) but requires more effort to inflate the tire. 

Gauge Accuracy

Gauge accuracy will determine how accurately the pump reads your tire’s PSI and can be especially important for those who need to maintain specific pressure levels in their tires. 

Not all mini pumps have accurate gauges, so it’s essential to do your research before purchasing. 

That’s because it also affects your safety while cycling. For example, if your mini pump’s gauge is inaccurate, you risk blowing out your tire if you continue to pump when the pressure is actually higher than what the gauge reads.

Construction and Durability

The construction and durability of a mini pump are also something to consider. A good mini pump should be able to withstand regular use without breaking or becoming damaged. 

The most durable mini pumps typically feature aluminum or carbon construction, while less durable pumps are typically made of plastic. 

It’s also crucial that the pump has a tight seal between the barrel and the valve to prevent air leakage. 

Warranty and Serviceability

The best pumps are made with quality parts that can withstand regular use, but if something does go wrong with your pump after an accident or normal wear-and-tear, you should be able to replace them easily. 

Pumps that come with a warranty or have good customer service are often of better quality and more likely to last. 

Price

Finally, the price of a mini pump is always an important consideration. Mini pumps can range in price from as little as $10 to over $100, so it is important to find one that fits your budget without sacrificing quality.

How Does a Mini Pump Work?

A mini pump inflates tires by forcing air into the tire when you pressurize the piston, which is located in the pump’s barrel. 

There are two types of mini pumps:

• Hand pumps. These pumps are small enough to hold in your hand while you inflate your tire.
• Frame pumps. These ones mount onto the frame of your bike. 

Most mini pumps come with a flexible hose that attaches to the valve, which allows you to fill your tire without removing it from the rim. 

The valves on most bicycles are either Schrader or Presta (also referred to as French). 

Schrader valves (like those found on car tires) are a little thicker and have a pin in the center, while Presta valves are very thin with a small nut on top.  It’s crucial to invest in a mini pump that fits the valve of your bike, so you don’t damage it or lose air when filling your tire.

Mini pumps can also come with different attachments for different applications. For example, some pumps come with a needle for patching tires, while others have a built-in gauge to measure the pressure in your tire. 

Final Thoughts

There we have it, folks!  I hope you now feel more confident choosing the right mini pump for your specific needs using all of this information. 

Till next time, happy riding! 

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Can You Put Hybrid Tires on a Road Bike?

Have you been hitting the trail recently, and your disc brakes won’t stop screeching? Any noise coming from the bike will drive ardent cyclists crazy. Moreover, squeaky disc brakes are often a cause for concern because the noise indicates that something’s not right.

Here are a few simple ways to fix squeaky disc brakes:

1. Clean the brake rotor.
2. Clean and sand down the brake pads.
3. Replace worn-out brake pads.
4. Align the disc brake calipers.
5. Straighten out or replace bent disc brake rotors.
6. Ensure the wheel is seated completely and sits straight.
7. Replace metal brake pads with resin brake pads.
8. Apply anti-squeak disc paste.
9. Apply grease to the back of the brake pad.
10. Clean the disc brake caliper pistons.

This article will go over the solutions mentioned above in more detail so that you can put an end to the annoying squealing noise coming from your disc brakes.

1. Clean the Brake Rotor

The most common cause of squeaky discs is a dirty rotor. The rotor is a thin piece of metal that rotates together with your wheels. It’s also called a disc because of its distinct shape.

The rotor is exposed to dust, dirt, mud, and other nasty stuff. Unfortunately, riding your favorite mountain trail is the fastest way to get the brake rotors dirty.

The accumulation of dirt creates uneven surfaces on the rotor, which can cause squeaking. It’s also very bad for the general braking performance of your bike.

While you can use special canned cleaners for the discs, it’s not necessary. Liquid soap and warm water are enough to remove any dirt and grease.

It’s best to avoid any chemicals in general to avoid contamination. Also, wear gloves when cleaning discs. The oil on your fingers can contaminate the pads, which may be causing the squeaking in the first place.

You can also use some isopropyl alcohol because it evaporates very quickly. Moreover, hard tap water can leave a thin residue of sediment.

Although you don’t have to remove the disc from the wheel to clean it, it’ll be much easier.

Depending on the disc brake rotor model, you’ll have to use either a T25 Torx screwdriver or a lockring tool.

This excellent video by Park Tool shows how to remove the disc brake rotor from the wheel:

Once you get the disc brake rotor off, here’s how to clean it:

1. Put on a pair of rubber gloves.
2. Apply soap and warm water or isopropyl alcohol onto the disc.
3. If the brake disc is extremely dirty, soak it for 10-15 minutes.
4. Rinse the disc thoroughly using isopropyl alcohol or water.
5. Wipe off the brake disc using a clean, dry towel.

Continue wearing rubber gloves from start to finish. The last thing you want is a fingerprint to contaminate the surface after you spent the last 20 minutes cleaning it.

2. Clean and Sand Down the Brake Pads

Before we talk about cleaning the brake pads, we first have to explain the different types.

The most common are metal and resin pads. Both are relatively good at self-cleaning, but they sometimes need some extra help.

More importantly, resin pads tend to get glazed. This happens when you hold the brake for too long. The friction causes the resin to heat up and melt.

This results in a completely shiny surface that can’t create enough friction to stop the bike. In addition to squealing, the brake pad won’t be able to brake properly.

Metal pads are resilient to glazing, but their surface can get too shiny as well.

Another huge problem is contamination. This only happens with organic and semi-organic pads. 

If a blob of chain grease or some other oily substance ends up on the pad, it’ll get contaminated.

So, what can you do about glazed, dirty, or contaminated brake pads?

You can clean, sand, and deglaze the pads with a blowtorch or lighter. Here’s how:

• Put on a pair of clean rubber gloves. This isn’t optional because you don’t want to contaminate the pads.

• Remove the pad pin clip and retaining pin. If your brakes use a spring instead of a retaining pin, remove it. Some designs use clips on the pads instead of a spring or a retaining pin.

• Slide the pads out.

• Clean the pads with isopropyl alcohol and a clean, dry towel. Don’t use paper towels as they might leave bits of paper on the surface.

• Use a file or 150-grit sandpaper to remove the top layer of the brake pad. Don’t push hard because you don’t want to waste the pad material. Also, don’t use fine sandpaper because it’ll make the surface too polished.

• If the brake pad is contaminated, use a blowtorch to burn off oils. You can also pour a bit of isopropyl alcohol and set it on fire. Be careful not to burn yourself. It’s best to do this outside on concrete.

3. Replace Worn-Out Brake Pads

If it’s been years since you first bought the disc brakes, it’s probably time to replace them.

Just like regular bike brakes, brake pads wear out over time. Old, thin brake pads make a horrible noise when you brake, no matter how clean they are.

With regular bike brakes, you can tell that they need replacing when the grooves are gone. But disc brakes don’t have those grooves. 

Instead, look at the thickness of the pad material. It’s the part of the pad that makes contact with the disc.

If it’s almost non-existent or not worn out evenly, you’ll have to replace it.

If one side of the pad is much thicker than the other, that could also cause squeaking. You can’t fix uneven wear without removing a lot of material. So, it’s best to replace the pads altogether.

A great replacement is the Zonon Semi-Metallic Brake Pads (Amazon.com). They’re noiseless, wear-resistant, and brake extremely well. Double-check for compatibility before buying, but they work with most Shimano Deore brakes.

Here is a good YouTube video on replacing disc brake pads:

4. Align the Disc Brake Calipers

If your brake pads are clean, oil-free, and not worn out, a misaligned brake caliper might be causing the squeaking.

The ear-piercing noise happens because only one part of the pad is making contact. The other part acts as a resonance chamber, amplifying the horrible squeal.

Disc brake calipers usually self-align as you use them. But they can get knocked out of place on intense rides, so it’s important to inspect them from time to time.

You can tell that the calipers aren’t centered by spinning your wheel when the bike is on a stand or upside-down. 

If the wheel isn’t turning freely, that means the brake pads are touching the disc and causing friction.

Double-check by looking at the pads from the front. If the pad’s surface isn’t parallel to the disc, the calipers need to be adjusted.

Thankfully, centering the calipers only takes a second. Grab the correct Allen wrench or screwdriver for the caliper bolts. Here’s what you do next:

1. Slightly loosen the two caliper bolts on each side.
2. Squeeze the brake as hard as you can. This realigns the caliper.
3. Holding the brake squeezed, retighten the nuts.
4. Release the brake and check whether the pads are centered.

I found this video on YouTube on centering disc brakes:

5. Straighten Out or Replace Bent Disc Brake Rotors

The brake rotor can get bent easily when the bike falls over. Hard braking is unlikely to bend it, but it can happen if the wheel hits a bump. 

A bent disc brake rotor can get squeaky because the pad isn’t making even contact when braking.

The easiest way to check if the disc brake is bent is to prop your bike up on a stand or turn it upside-down. Spin the wheel and look at the disc brake.

If it doesn’t go in a straight line or looks like it wobbles, there’s a good chance it’s bent.

You can try to straighten out the bent rotor using an adjustable or monkey wrench. Sadly, you may have to replace the disc altogether if it’s too warped.

You can replace the rotor on its own, which is much cheaper than getting the whole kit.

The Shimano Disc Brake Rotor (Amazon.com) is compatible with most Shimano brakes. You should only use resin pads with it, though.

6. Ensure the Wheel Is Seated Completely and Sits Straight

Sometimes it’s not the disc brake rotor or caliper that’s misaligned – it’s the wheel.

If the wheel isn’t completely seated on the skewer, it can cause all sorts of issues. Brake squeak is the least of your worries because the wheel could fall off altogether!

If your bike uses a quick-release lever, make sure it’s completely closed. Do this by turning the lever clockwise so that it’s hand-tight. Next, close the lever by turning it to the other side using some amount of force.

Also, ensure the wheel is firmly seated in the axle fork in the first place.

If your wheel uses regular nuts and bolts instead of a quick-release lever, tighten it with a wrench.

7. Replace Metal Brake Pads With Resin Brake Pads

Metal brake pads are fantastic. They last a very long time and don’t suffer from contamination issues.

However, metal-on-metal contact is inherently super loud. Cheap metal brake pads are especially loud, so avoid them entirely.

Moreover, fine metal dust will coat your rotator over time, which can be yet another source of squeaking.

Resin brake pads are much quieter because they’re relatively soft. High-quality organic brake pads are so quiet that you won’t even hear them.

8. Apply Anti-squeak Disc Paste

If you’ve used “anti-squeak” products on your car brake rotor before, you’ll know how effective it is.

It reduces friction between the rotor and the brake pads.

However, you can’t use any anti-squeak lubricant on your bicycle disc brakes. Most of these products will contaminate the resin pads, ruining them in the process.

Instead, get something that’s specially made for bikes.

A popular product is the PV BIKE WORKS Squeal Out Paste (Amazon.com). Reviews claim that squeaking goes away instantly after spreading a thin layer of paste on the disc. Moreover, the large 3 oz (85.04 g) jar is enough to last a lifetime.

9. Apply Grease to the Back of the Brake Pad

After all that talk about how oil can contaminate the brake pads, you’d be justified to think that greasing your pads is the last thing you’d want to do.

And it is, so only do this if the squeaking won’t go away no matter what you do.

The noise may be coming from the point where the pad attaches to the caliper.

So, the solution is to apply a bit of water-resistant grease that won’t melt to the back of the brake pad.

The solution is simple:

1. Remove the pads.
2. Use a cotton swab or toothpick to apply a thin layer of grease on the back of the pads.
3. Slide them back in.

Wear rubber gloves and be very careful when applying the grease. A small drop of oil on the side of the pad is enough to render it useless.

Again, don’t do this unless you’re 100% sure that the noise is coming from the caliper. 

10. Clean the Disc Brake Caliper Pistons

Cleaning the disc brake pistons fixes the same issue that greasing the back of the pad does.

A bit of dirt or mud can get stuck between the piston and the pad, which can cause uneven braking and squeaking.

Cleaning the pistons is fairly easy. Here’s how to do it:

1. Remove the disc brake pads.
2. Press the brake to expose the pistons.
3. Apply isopropyl alcohol.
4. Use a cotton swab to remove dirt and grime buildup.
5. Place the disc brake pads back in.
6. Test the brakes

Final Thoughts

Squeaky disc brakes are a common issue that all cyclists face at some point or another. The most common problem is dirty or contaminated brake pads. 

Misaligned calipers and bent disc brake rotors can also cause squeaking because it causes uneven braking.

Easy solutions include:

• Cleaning and degreasing or replacing the pads.
• Straightening or replacing the disc brake rotor.
• Applying anti-squeak paste.
• Cleaning and greasing the caliper pistons.

Related articles:

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13 Pros and Cons of Bicycle Disc Brakes

Do Bike Brake Pads Get Old?

Cycling is a pastime enjoyed by people of all ages. Whether you are new to cycling or have been doing it for your whole life, you will still want to know how to get the most out of your bicycle. One of the critical questions you will face when improving your bicycle is, do you need disc brakes for your bike?

Bicycle disc brakes offer more stopping power and put less wear and tear on your wheels than rim brakes. Disc brakes also work consistently and allow for faster rides and laps. However, disc brakes are costly, pose safety hazards, and add weight to your bicycle.

The braking you need for your bicycle depends on several factors, including personal preference, what kind of bicycle you have and what type of cycling you plan on doing. Keep reading to learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of disc brakes when cycling so you can make an informed decision on which type of braking will benefit you most. 

The Pros of Bicycle Disc Brakes

There are several great benefits to choosing disc brakes for your bicycle, including: 

• They provide your bike with far greater stopping power 
• They reduce the wear and tear of your wheels
• They provide you with enhanced stopping even in wet conditions
• They work even when wheels are out-of-line
• They allow for faster rides, trials, or laps
• They allow for wider tires to be fit

Let’s take a look at these advantages in more detail.

Disc Brakes Have More Stopping Power

The main advantage that disc brakes have over other forms of brakes is when it comes to stopping power. Disc brakes provide you with a significant boost to the braking force.

When you have improved braking power on your bicycle, you can cycle quicker and stop later as your brakes do not require much space to bring you to a stop. 

Another benefit to improved stopping power is the fact that less force is required to pull the brakes. Using less energy over a long period will significantly reduce muscle fatigue in your hands, especially in long downhill cycles. Your bicycle will be less strenuous for you to use when less work is required to activate the brakes. 

Disc Brakes Put Less Wear and Tear on Your Wheels

Disc brakes do not wear down wheel rims, unlike caliper or v shape brakes. Disc brakes only grip on a disc that is attached to the axle of the wheel, whereas traditional bicycle brakes clamp down on the wheel rim. 

Over an extended period, traditional bicycle brakes will wear away at the wheel. When the wheel has become worn, it can lead to the need for expensive repairs and replacements. As a result, disc brakes will put less strain on the wheels of your bike. You will save a lot of money on wheel maintenance with disc brakes as a result. 

Disc Brakes Are Reliable in Wet Conditions

Every cyclist knows the feeling of skidding when the roads are wet. Skidding during damp weather is a result of your bicycle tire losing friction with the road. Your bike can lose friction if you don’t have the right tires fitted or if you have inadequate braking.

Disc brakes function excellently in wet conditions when compared to traditional braking options. Standard brakes such as a v brake will provide you with a slow response in wet conditions. This slow response is due to the fact that the brakes are gripping a damp surface.

Disc brakes do not come into contact with the road, so they do not get as wet. As a result, disc brakes remain responsive and effective even in the rain.

Disc brakes also work effectively in muck, dirt, and even when starting to rust. As a result, disc brakes are popular with off-road cyclists and mountain bikers. 

Disc Brakes Allow for Faster Rides and Laps

If you are cycling competitively, you will know how invaluable it is to cut down your lap times wherever possible. One way to ensure that you can improve your lap times is by improving braking. 

Improving the braking on your bicycle allows for later braking before turns and corners. When you brake later before a corner, you are continuing at speed for a more extended period before slowing down. Over the course of a race, this can lead to significant improvements to your racing results. 

Throughout a trial or lap, later breaking will result in a faster time. Choosing disc brakes may provide you with the competitive advantage that you need to help you get ahead in your cycling races. 

Disc Brakes Offer Consistent Braking

Disc brakes are known to brake consistently, especially if the disc brakes are a hydraulic system. This means that the same force applied to your brake lever will result in the same brake force every time. 

Standard brakes do not offer the same consistency as you may have to apply different amounts of force to apply the brakes. When your bike has disc brakes, this will not be the case. 

Disc brakes will require the same amount of force to apply the brakes as long as the braking system is maintained correctly. 

When cyclist’s brakes are consistent, they can avoid braking abruptly. Braking abruptly without intention can lead to skidding or an accident. 

Disc Brakes Still Work When Wheels Are Out of Line

When you are cycling, things can go wrong. One of the most common issues that cyclists face is wheels that are out of line. Traditional braking systems do not operate effectively when wheels are not in sequence. 

Rim brakes will squeak and slip, and standard brakes may even stop working entirely when a wheel is out of line.

However, with disc brakes, your braking system will still operate with out-of-line wheels. Disc brakes grip a small disc that is attached to the axle of the wheel. As a result, disc brakes are usually unaffected by out-of-line wheels. Disc brakes are more reliable for cyclists who often damage their wheels as a result. 

Disc Brakes Allow for Wider Tires To Be Fit

One significant advantage to adding disc brakes to a bike is the fact that disc brakes allow for easy installation of wider tires. Wide tires are difficult to install when you have rim brakes, but with disc brakes, wide tires are no longer an issue.

Wide tires provide you with more grip on the road when you are cycling and a smoother ride. Wider tires also work well on uneven or off-road terrain. As a result, you will often find disc brakes on mountain bikes. 

Wider tires allow for improved braking and traction when riding your bike. These improvements will enhance your cycling experience as you will have a more responsive and smooth cycle on your bike. 

The Cons of Bicycle Disc Brakes

While there are numerous advantages to disc brakes, there are some disadvantages that need to be addressed, including:

• They’re heavier than standard braking choices 
• They’re more expensive to install and maintain 
• They’re difficult to maintain on your own
• They’re less aerodynamic
• They require specific wheels
• Some cyclists have even raised safety concerns regarding disc brakes

Keep reading to learn more about the downside of disc brakes and if they are worth the investment for your bicycle.

Disc Brakes Add Weight

The weight of your bicycle is a crucial aspect of the bike’s performance. This is why bikes are built using lightweight materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber. 

If you are conscious of adding additional weight to your bike, you should not choose a disc braking system. Disc brakes require more parts to function, and this adds up to extra weight for your bike. 

The extra weight added by disc brakes can slow you down while you cycle. The excess weight may also harm your chances if you cycle competitively. 

The weight added by a disc brake system will not make a massive difference if you are cycling leisurely. However, it could make a big difference in a race. 

The Cost of Installation and Maintenance

The biggest downside to disc brakes for a bicycle is the added cost. Disc brake systems are more expensive to purchase than standard braking systems.

Disc brakes also require special skills to install, especially if they are a hydraulic disc braking system. Special skills need special pay rates, which means that you will have to pay a lot more for your maintenance and installation. 

If you are not willing to spend a lot of money on your bike or are new to cycling and avoid paying a lot for minor improvements, disc brakes are not the best choice for you.

The Potential Safety Hazards

Disc brakes have received safety concerns voiced by seasoned cyclists.

Experienced riders have complained that disc brakes can result in crashes when a group of cyclists is close by while riding. If some of the cycling group has standard braking systems, the difference in braking can result in a crash. 

As a result, some cyclists have reservations about disc brakes due to the potential safety issues that may arise when cycling in a group.

Disc Brakes Are Difficult To Mend and Maintain Yourself

Many cyclists enjoy maintaining and repairing their bikes. Bicycles are often simple in design and usually easy to work on as a DIY project.

However, disc brakes can be tricky, even for experienced bike mechanics. Disc brakes contain multiple intricate parts that require expertise to mend and maintain.

Hydraulic disc brakes also require braking fluid to be pumped into tubes. If you don’t have experience with brake fluid in the past, this job will be challenging and potentially expensive as you will likely need to buy tools and equipment.

Disc Brakes Are Less Aerodynamic

Aerodynamics is a vital component of competitive cycling. All professional cycling equipment has been designed with aerodynamics in mind. This is why many cyclists do not value disc brakes

Disc brakes do not glide through the air as freely as standard brakes. This can create more resistance in the air when you are cycling. More air resistance will slow you down while cycling or more effort will be required to reach the same speed. 

Poor aerodynamics can hurt your chances when you are in a race, and poor aerodynamics will also cause you to use more effort to get where you are going. As a result, disc brakes can make life more difficult when cycling as they may slow you down and require more effort to get where you are going. 

Disc Brakes Require Specific Wheels To Be Installed

If you decide to have disc brakes installed on your bike, you will likely have to purchase new wheels before you can do so. 

Most standard wheel hubs do not have the right fittings to add disc brakes. If you would like to have disc brakes installed on your bike, you will have to pay out for new wheels, which can be very expensive.

Even if you do not need new wheels to add disc brakes to your bike, you will likely require new hubs to enable you to install new disc brakes. 

The Difference Between Disc Brakes and Rim Brakes

Before choosing disc brakes for your bicycle, it’s important to understand the difference between disc brakes and standard brakes, or rim brakes, as they’re also known.

Disc brakes are mounted onto a disc that is attached to the axle of each wheel on the bike; when the brakes close on the disc, the disc stops, which in turn will stop the axle from rotating. Disc brakes provide a responsive and sharp response to pulling the brake lever.

Rim brakes, however, are fit for applying braking force to the rim of the wheel. This leads to the wheel coming to a stop. Rim brakes provide you with an unpredictable amount of braking power when you pull the brake lever. 

Are Disc Brakes Better for Bikes?

Disc brakes are better for bikes that run as quickly as possible with excellent and consistent braking. If you are serious about cycling and you have space in your budget for improvements to your bike, disc brakes are a fantastic way to enhance the performance and reliability of your bicycle. 

Disc brakes are becoming a popular choice with competitive cyclists, and they have even featured on successful tour de France bikes in recent years.

However, if you want a bicycle that runs around town or a bike that you can enjoy leisurely cycling, you don’t need disc brakes.

Disc brakes are expensive and are usually not worth the investment unless you are serious about cycling. 

If you think that disc brakes are the right brakes for you, check out these excellent products available on Amazon. 

JGbike Shimano MT200 MTB Hydraulic Disc Brake Set

The JGbike Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake Set is an exceptional braking system. This hydraulic disc braking system is adaptable to a wide variety of bicycles including, BMX, mountain bikes, road bikes, and e-bikes. The JGbike, however, does come at a cost. Prices for this braking system range from $150-$200. 

RUJOI Bike Disc Brake Kit

If you want to get disc brakes for your bicycle without breaking the bank, you should check out the RUJOI Bike Disc Brake Kit. This disc braking system comes at an affordable price. Usually, you can expect to pay less than $50 for the RUJOI Bike Disc Brake Kit. As a result, you can have all of the benefits of disc brakes without the hefty costs.\

Final Thoughts

There are many fantastic benefits to adding disc brakes to your bike. Depending on your needs, wants, and budget, disc brakes may be a great addition to your bicycle. The pros of disc brakes are significant, yet there are some drawbacks to disc brakes that you should first consider before you modify your ride.

Related articles:

Do Bike Brake Pads Get Old?

The Pros and Cons of Disc Brakes on A Road Bike

How Often Should Bike Cables Be Replaced?

Sources

• Road: 8 reasons not to get disc brakes — find out the hassles before you switch
• Map My Run Blog: The Rim Versus Disc Brake Debate Explained

It can be disconcerting to find out your favorite bike got scratched up from somewhere. The first thing you would do in such a case is to find out how to hide or remove the scratches, but how do you effectively hide scratches on a bike?

Here are the steps you can take to hide scratches on a bike:

1. Determine the severity of the damage.
2. Buff the scratches using toothpaste.
3. Use candle wax to remove the scratches.
4. Use superglue to fill in the scratches.
5. Sand and polish the scratches. 
6. Try urethane car paint to hide scratches.

In this article, I’ll be detailing the types of bike scratches, various methods available to hide them, products to fix them, and much more!

1. Determine the Severity of the Damage

Depending on the level and severity of the damage to the bike’s paint, you may need to use various solutions. These range from cheap and easy to expensive and labor-intensive. Generally, the former will be quicker temporary fixes, while the latter will last longer and be closer to a permanent fix. 

If you only have some faint scratches, for example, you probably don’t need to sand and repaint your whole bike frame. Tailor your solution to the severity of your problem. 

Before we get into the methods, however, let’s talk about the various types of scratches.

The three types of bike scratches are:

• Scratches to the top transparent layer of paint. This is the most minor level of cosmetic damage possible to a bike. This type of damage is considered extremely minor and most people probably wouldn’t even notice it without an in-depth daily inspection of the bike.

• Scratches on the surface paint. This damage is more serious than damage to the top clear coat, but still relatively easy to fix. This kind of damage penetrates past the top transparent clear coat and damages the paint. Oftentimes this is just damage to the primer and isn’t as serious as scratches to the base layer are.

• Scratches on the base paint layer. The most serious cosmetic damage is scratching on the base paint layer. This can often necessitate repainting because it leaves the metal exposed to air and water that can cause rust.

Now that you know the difference, let’s see how to fix these scratches.

2. Buff the Scratches Using Toothpaste

Toothpaste, surprisingly, is a good choice to help buff out mild scratches; this is because most toothpaste formulas contain mild abrasive agents used in cleaning teeth. Toothpaste varieties advertised as ‘teeth whitening’ are more likely to work for this purpose.

How To Remove Scratches With the Toothpaste Method

Follow these steps to use the toothpaste method:

1. Clean the area containing the scratch thoroughly.
2. Apply toothpaste to dry paper towels (alternately, a dry microfiber cloth)
3. Buff the scratched area with circular motions.
4. Use another paper towel to wipe the toothpaste off.
5. If the affected area doesn’t seem buffed, repeat the process until you achieve satisfactory results.

If this method doesn’t work for your scratch, the damage may be deeper than you realize. You may wish to consider some of the later methods in this guide, such as sanding.

3. Use Candle Wax To Remove the Scratches

Candle wax is the first solution to minor cosmetic bike damage most people turn to and is relatively simple in contrast to some of the other fixes in this guide.

How To Remove Scratches With the Candle Wax Method

These are the steps to remove scratches with the candle wax method:

1. Light a candle.
2. Wait until the candle has pooled liquid wax around the wick.
3. Pour just a little liquid wax onto the site of the bike’s scratch.
4. Wait 5 minutes.
5. Scrape off excess wax from the surface.
6. Inspect the scratch – if not filled and obscured by wax, repeat this process.

If the candle wax fix doesn’t help hide or fill in your bike’s scratches, consider a different method – this only helps very minor scratches and won’t fix every case of cosmetic damage. Light, shallow scratches are what this method works best on.

4. Use Superglue To Fill in the Scratches

Not everyone owns candles these days, but most households have superglue in a junk drawer somewhere. For those of you just wanting to fill in some light scratches on your bike without making a special trip for a candle to do the job, grab your super glue.

How To Remove Scratches Using the Superglue Method

1. Squeeze a small amount of superglue over the scratch(es).
2. Smooth the superglue until it fills the scratch and is level with the bike’s paint.
3. Use nail polish or car urethane paint (if you desire) over superglue to make it look more natural.

Super glue isn’t the best way to disguise a bike scratch, but it’s good in a pinch if you have no other options. As with candle wax, super glue is only good for covering light surface scratches and shouldn’t be used for deeper cosmetic damage.

5. Sand and Polish the Scratches

This method involves the use of sandpaper and nail polish to fill the scratch and buff it to appear congruent with the rest of the paint. Ideally, choose a nail polish slightly darker than the paint’s regular color – it will get sanded and become lighter through this process. Sanding the scratch and surrounding area will hopefully get rid of the scratch altogether, not just obscure it.

A word of caution: don’t sand too hard in this process; too much sanding can damage the paint even worse than it may already be. 

How To Remove Scratches Using the Sand and Polish Method

Here are the steps to follow if you wish to use the sand & polish method:

1. Clean the scratched area thoroughly.
2. Fill the scratch with nail polish. Depending on the depth, you may need more or less polish. Be careful to not put too much polish so you can gauge the damage.
3. Wait for the polish to completely dry.
4. Use fine-grit sandpaper (120 or higher) to buff the scratched area carefully. Start lightly and work your way up from there. Your goal is to buff the polish to match the surrounding paint color, not damage the paint.  You’ll know you’re done when the polished area matches the surrounding paint. If you picked a good color, it may be indistinguishable.
5. Clean the newly buffed area to ensure the procedure worked to your satisfaction.

Now, you should be able to take your bike out for a ride without any obvious scratches!

6. Try Urethane Car Paint To Hide Scratches

This is a more drastic and expensive solution compared to the others. If you have extensive damage to your bike’s frame paint, you can find automotive paint very close to the color of your bike’s paint. Applying it is a whole other story, though, because you’d need an air compressor and paint gun, not to mention sandpaper and primer. However, let’s assume that you have these things.

How To Cover Damage Using the Urethane Car Paint Method

Here are the steps to follow on how to paint a bike frame to cover damage:

1. Sand the damaged area thoroughly with 400-grit sandpaper, working to remove the glossy sheen of the paint and get a duller look.
2. Apply a layer of primer to the area and let dry.
3. Mix your automotive paint according to manufacturer instructions.
4. Spray the primed area. The exact technique is difficult to elaborate on and would require a whole article by itself, so consider looking up guides for this part.
5. Sand down the area if you have drips after the paint is dry and repaint those spots if desired.

This is by no means a comprehensive guide to painting your bike, but it should give you a general idea of what the process is like. As you can see, the process is way more complex than the previous methods of obscuring or buffing scratches, but the results are undeniable.

Scratch Removal Products

There are countless products available on Amazon.com to help remove and/or obscure scratches on paint, and some work better than others. Some products merely abrade the area similarly to sandpaper, while others clean and condition the area as well.

Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound

This product uses micro-abrasive technology to remove surface blemishes, which include oxidation, scratches, and other minor imperfections. Unlike some lesser quality products, Ultimate Compound doesn’t produce more scratches or ‘swirling’ effects. 

Its application is simple: simply apply the product to a soft applicator pad and rub it on in up-and-down motions. Depending on the severity of your scratches, you may have to adjust the amount of force you’re using. After this initial application, use a microfiber cloth to wipe off excess product. If the results aren’t to your satisfaction, consider another application.

Shine Armor Car Scratch Remover

Shine Armor Scratch Remover carefully wears away flaws such as water stains, oxidation, scratches, and swirls. Similar to Maguiar’s, this product conditions the paint and leaves it glossier after application. Unlike dry abrasion techniques that involve sandpaper, this product creates no annoying dust or residue.

The application process is also pretty much identical to Maguiar’s – apply with an applicator pad to wherever your bike is scratched up. For deeper scratches, use more force, while light scratches will need less. Wipe off any excess product and assess the results. If it’s not to your liking, you can always give it another go or even try a different product.

Gloss vs. Matte Paint on Bikes

The two most popular choices of paints on bicycles are glossy and matte – the names are pretty straightforward. Gloss paint provides the bike frame with a glossy and shiny finish. By comparison, matte paint gives a bike a solid and understated look. Each type of paint has its pros and cons.

Gloss Paint

Gloss paint is perhaps the most common type of bike paint. Gloss has a layer of transparent clear coat, sometimes with extra coats of clear added after painting. These clear coats are designed to give the bike a mirror shine, but also serve a dual purpose: protection. 

Pros of Gloss Paint

• Gives an illusion of depth
• The ‘shiny’ top layer makes gloss more durable than matte
• Easier to clean than matte paint
• Easier to repair vs. matte

Cons of Gloss Paint

• Gloss fades over time
• More prone to chips and cracks than matte
• Magnifies surface flaws

Matte Paint

Matte paint is created by placing a special chemical agent over glossy paint to perforate the top layer and create a unique layer. As a direct result, matte paint is very porous, meaning it doesn’t reflect light like gloss paint does. This non-reflective property is what gives matte paint its signature ‘dull’ look.

Pros of Matte Paint

• Elegant look
• Generally cheaper than gloss
• Obscures imperfections in the painted surface

Cons of Matte Paint

• Absorbs oils, sweat, dirt, and other impurities
• Harder to clean than gloss
• The top matte layer fades over time to reveal the glossy layers underneath
• Scratches on matte paint can’t be buffed out
• Requires special care to stay in good condition (cleaners, solvents, etc.)

While some people may like the unique look of matte paint, it’s generally not very practical on bikes. You may be sweating on it, which will be absorbed by the paint and produce stains. Matte also tends to pick up fingerprints from the oils on your fingers.

Periodic friction such as rubbing against it will eventually wear away the matte finish; meaning, you’ll find satin or even glossy-looking spots on your bike where you often touch it.

It’s also important to note that abrasive techniques of hiding scratches don’t work on matte paint for the above reasons. Generally, matte paint restoration requires special products, techniques, and sometimes even professional intervention.

How To Take Care of Your Bike’s Paint

There may be methods available to fix scratches on your bike’s paint, but the perfect solution would be if it never got scratched at all! If you’re careful with your bike and mindful of its paint, it may last a long time without ever getting scratched up. As a bonus, taking care of your bike is generally cheaper than scratch removal products!

1. Wash Your Bike Regularly 

Any bike that gets regular use should get regular washes, and this especially applies if you do any hard riding – forest or mountain trails, races, and that sort of thing. Bikes get exposed to dirt, dust, mud, and all kinds of other nasty gunk that ruins your shiny bike paint. If left to their own devices, these elements abrade and damage your bike’s paint. Eventually, this can cause water spots and even rust.

2. Wax It Often

After a hard ride, wash your bike with soap and water. After you let it dry, use a protective wax such as Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax, which is available on Amazon. Waxing polishes and conditions your bike’s natural gloss and enhances it; plus, this wax cleans any surface contaminants that may remain after a good wash. Wax doesn’t need to be applied very often, perhaps monthly at most.

3. If In Doubt, Cover It With Tape

If you’re going to be riding in very dirty environments like muddy forests or mountain trails, you may wish to just wrap your bike frame with duct tape or some other grippy tape. The tape will prevent mud and dirt from ever reaching your bike’s paint. This is a downside if you like looking at or showing off your bike, but it’s a legitimate option if concerned about keeping your bike in pristine condition. Another option is to apply a special adhesive specifically designed to protect the bike frame.

After you’re done biking, simply remove the tape and wash off any lingering adhesive residue. I promise that it’s less work than washing off caked-on mud!

Final Thoughts

Paint damage can be annoying, but there are a ton of ways to deal with it. You can use a simple and easy method for light scratches, or go as far as sanding and repainting the bike frame. What method or product will work best for you all depends on the extent of the scratching and what means you have at your disposal.

Related Articles:

Do you Need a Chain-Stay Protector on a Road Bike?

3 Best Methods To Store Your Bike at Home

How To Store Bike Tires Without Damaging Them

5 Best Bicycle Covers for Storage

Budget isn’t the only thing that matters when getting yourself a bike. The right wheel size makes all the difference between a comfortable ride and an expensive mistake.

Bike wheels come in different sizes, such as 16 in. (40.6 cm), 20 in. (50.8 cm), 24 in. (61 cm), 26 in. (66 cm), 27 in. (68.6 cm), 27.5 in. (69.9 cm), 29 in. (73.7 cm), and 32 in. (81.3 cm). The right wheel size for an adult bike is based on your frame size, bike type, and your required frame size.

Let’s explore the different types of wheel sizes and what each size offers. Further on, I’ll discuss how you can choose the best wheel size for you.

How Wheel Size Is Measured

While each bike wheel size is measured in inches, these wheels also use a measurement known as ISO.

ISO 5775 is an international standard through which all bike wheels and rims are measured. The ISO of a bike wheel measures the diameter of the bike’s rim bead in millimeters. For example, for a 16-inch (40.6 cm) bike wheel, the ISO will measure 305 mm (12 in.).

You can also use ISO measurements to refer to each bike size, as these measurements are commonly referred to in the biking industry.

What Are the Different Bike Wheel Sizes?

16” (40.6 cm) Wheels (ISO 305 MM)

16-inch (40.6 cm) wheels are commonly used in children’s bikes. Otherwise, this wheel size is used on compact foldable bikes and some recumbent bikes.

These wheels are commonly used in compact foldable bikes and some recumbent bikes. However, you can expect a decrease in quality as they’re smaller in size. These wheels are shorter, so they don’t fare well when traveling on rough roads or bumps. You can expect to feel some small rocks and debris flying as you ride, and you might also get stuck in potholes, so it’s important to stay vigilant. 

20” (50.8 cm) Wheels (ISO 406 MM)

The 20-inch (50.8 cm) wheels are standard for BMX bikes and are very common on recumbent bikes. You’ll also find that most folding bikes also sport these small wheels, especially those designed for rougher use.

Unlike the 16-inch (40.6 cm) wheel, the 20-inch (50.8 cm) wheel is easier to maneuver. It travels well and makes biking easier for beginners. However, like the 16-inch (40.6 cm) wheel, these wheels undergo plenty of abuse from debris and rocks. 

These smaller wheels require a unique frame and a longer handlebar stem so that the rider can maintain an upright position. As a result, it becomes harder to steer the bike, which also leads to handling issues. If you’re a new rider, it’s best to skip the 20-inch (50.8 cm) wheel, just in case you can’t handle the more stiff frame.

20” (50.8 cm) Wheels (ISO 451 MM)

If you have a racing BMX or a classic shopping bike, you’ll come across a 20-inch (50.8 cm) wheel on them, too. However, these have an ISO rim of 451 mm.

Although the measurement is more than the 406 mm (16 in.) than the original 20-inch (50.8 cm) wheel has, this ISO 451 was initially called a 20-inch (50.8 cm) wheel. However, you’ll rarely find wheels with an ISO 451 anymore.

24” (61 cm) Wheels (ISO 507 MM)

24-inch (61 cm) wheels were relatively uncommon in the bike industry until fairly recently.

24-inch (61 cm) wheels were initially fitted in BMX cruiser bikes or junior mountain bikes. The frames had the same maneuverability and geometry as the 20-inch (50.8 cm) bikes. However, because of the slightly larger wheel size, this wheel became famous for mountain bikes.

As a result, many junior mountain bikes now sport the 24-inch (61 cm) wheel, which is becoming a norm in the industry.

Based on your preference, the 24-inch (61 cm) wheel might suit you well for a regular bike. However, you might want to delay any plans on getting a mountain bike until you’ve become well-accustomed to handling speed and control.

26” (66 cm) Wheels (ISO 559 MM)

The 26-inch (66 cm) wheel has remained a standard wheel size for most American bikes for a century, so you’ll find plenty of bikes with these wheels. Popularized by its use in mountain bikes, this size wheel is the only one wide enough to sustain the demands of rough roads and off-road biking.

As such, you’ll find that to this day, most high-performance bikes, including mountain bikes and folding bikes, use the 26-inch (66 cm) wheel. However, don’t be mistaken in thinking that the “26 inch” (66 cm) refers to the complete diameter of the wheel. Instead, it’s the tire’s outside diameter. As that’s the ISO of the 26-inch (66 cm) wheel comes down to 559 MM.

27” (68.6 cm) Wheels (ISO 630 MM)

The 27-inch (68.6 cm) bike wheel was a staple during the 1970s to 1980s before the more stable 26-inch (66 cm) wheel replaced it.

Although no longer in use, you’ll still find many homes with such wheels stored in garages and basements. Because these wheels are still used in bikes, companies still manufacture them, but they don’t encourage using this wheel size. If you have a vintage bike, it’s best if you keep your old bike stored safely away rather than risk using it.

Nevertheless, if you still want to ride it, your local bike shop will have to order you a 27” (68.6 cm) tire.

27.5” (69.9 cm) Wheel or 650b Wheel (ISO 584 MM)

Something you’ll get used to as you become familiar with biking terminology and components is the use of different names for essentially the same size wheels.

For example, the 27.5-inch (69.9 cm) wheel was initially called the 650b wheel. Unlike the 29” (69.9 cm) wheel, the 27.5-inch (69.9 cm) or 650b wheel had better stability on smaller road frames. These wheels could easily drive on gravel or roads and carve a path for similar wheel sizes to be introduced into mountain bike construction.

This was when the 650b wheel was changed into the 27.5” (69.9 cm) wheel because it could be used for off-road biking. The wheel offers greater advantages than the 26” (66 cm) wheel since it rolls off obstacles easily, allowing the rider to maintain momentum through rotational inertia. Plus, it can offer a better contact patch.

Because of its many advantages, the 27.5-inch (69.9 cm) wheel was also the first wheel used in the initial folding bike models worldwide.

29” (73.7 cm) Wheel or 700c (ISO 622 MM)

The 29-inch (50.8 cm) wheel is also called the 700c wheel and is the standard wheel for most modern road bikes. These bikes have an ISO of 622 MM. However, because the wheel has a complete outer diameter of 700MM, it’s referred to as the 700c wheel in international industries. This wheel comes equipped with multiple rim sizes, including the 700a, 700b, and 700c.

However, because the other wheel sizes have died out, the only remaining is the 622MM rim size, which comes equipped in the 700c wheel. This wheel is fitted in all bikes meant for narrow roads as well as folding bikes.

This wheel offers better performance and is a much better option if you want a well-rounded bike that’s durable and easy to transport. 

Alongside the 27.5-inch (68.6 cm) wheel, the 29-inch (73.7 cm) wheel is standard in the mountain biking world since riders can push their bikes to the limit without sacrificing maneuverability.

This wheel is also a better option for a high-performance mountain bike since the wider rim makes for wider tires. 

32” (81.3 cm) Wheel (ISO 686 MM) and 36” (91.4 cm) Wheel (ISO 787 MM)

The 32-inch (81.3 cm) wheel is uncommon but used for custom-built frames for tall riders. 

If you’re over 6’6” (198 cm) and need to find a bike that fits your stature, a bike shop will have no problem finding you a larger, custom-built bike. However, you won’t find one anywhere readily near you.

In other words, the 32” (81.3 cm) and the 36” (91.4 cm) wheels are monsters and are meant for larger people.

Wheel Size	Use
16″ (40.6cm) Wheels (ISO 305 MM)	Children’s Bikes Compact Foldable Bikes Some Recumbent Bikes
20″ (50.8 cm) Wheels (ISO 406 MM)	Standard Size for BMX Bike Standard Size for Most Folding Bikes Most Recumbent Bikes
20″ (50.8 cm) Wheels (ISO 451 MM)	Standard Racing BMX Classic Shopping Bike
24″ (61 cm) Wheels (ISO 507 MM)	BMX Cruiser Bikes Junior Mountain Bikes
26″ (66 cm) Wheels (ISO 559 MM)	Standard Wheel Size for Most American Bikes Most Hight-Performance Bikes
27″ (68.6 cm) Wheels (ISO 630 MM)	No longer in use Standard Wheel Size in the 1970s to 1980s Size is Still Manufactured but Not Encouraged to Use
27.5″ (69.9 cm) Wheels or 650b Wheel (ISO 584 MM)	Used on Some Smaller Road and Gravel Frames
29″ (73.7 cm) Wheels or 700c (ISO 622 MM)	Most Modern Road and Gravel Bikes Standard Size for Mountain Bikes
32″ (81.3 cm) Wheels (ISO 686 MM)	Custom-Built Frames for Tall Riders
36″ (91.4 cm) Wheels (ISO 787 MM)	Custom-Built Frames for Tall Riders

Are All Wheels and Tires the Same?

Wheels and tires aren’t the same. The word wheel can refer to any round object. However, a tire is something specific. Tires come in different types, are made of different qualities, and are classified into different categories.

Mainly, there are 4 types of tires:

• Clinchers. They’re more commonly used for bikes, so you’ll generally find these in almost all utility bikes.

• Folding bikes. These are similar to clinchers; only they have the quality that you can fold them.There’s not much difference in terms of strength or durability. The only difference is that these folding tires come in handy for people who readily travel and need foldable tires.

• Tubular tires. These have a lesser weight and employ a low rolling resistance.

• Tubeless tires. These tires weigh less, have better resistance, and can be driven, even if you’re riding against the wind. The tubeless quality won’t prevent you from gaining good speed.

What To Consider When Buying Bike Wheels

Buying a bike wheel shouldn’t be so complicated now that you know the different sizes available in the market.

Paired with that information, you should now consider the type of bike you have, the type of tires you’ll use, and the riding you’ll do.

Check the Dimensions

The typical dimensions for a standard adult bike should remain between 26” (66 cm) or 29” (73.7 cm) wheels. This includes wheels for hybrids and mountain bikes.

You’ll easily find mountain bikes with 27.5” (69.9 cm) wheels. But you’ll want to check whether you can easily stand on your bike when not riding. Your legs will have to reach the ground firmly for the wheel size to be satisfactory.

If you’re planning on buying a simple road bike, you’ll find the measurements written in metric. 650 MM or 700 MM would be a better option.

If you’re opting for a BMX bike, you’ll find that most bikes are fitted with 20” (50.8 cm) wheels.

Determine the Tire Width You Need

You’ll find that tire sizes are firmly based on 2 camps:

• Thinner wheels. These wheels will give you better speed — but there’s a catch. Because these wheels are skinnier and have lesser contact with the road, they require a higher air pressure to remain strong. That results in a bumpier ride. Skinnier wheels also wear out reasonably quickly than your average wide wheel and are more vulnerable to damage.

• Wider wheels. These wheels maintain more contact with the road. They offer a steadier ride, have more traction on the road, and maintain balance on irregular surfaces. They’re not as fast as the thin wheels, but where they lack in speed, they make up for it through dependability.

That being said, if you require a wider tire, find a tire within 26–27.5 in. (66–69.9 cm). Any wheel smaller than that will be thin.

Choose Between Smooth Tread or Knobby Tires

The most common tire treads you’ll find in bikes are the smooth tread and the knobby tires.

Smoother tires work best for riding on the pavement or racing since they intentionally maintain minimal contact with the ground. But, if you live in a space with muddy or wet trails, rough terrains, or any space where you might need more pedal power, knobby tires are the only tires you should use.

Even with smooth tires, some wheels come with a little tread pattern, making it easy to ride on different paths. But if you have knobby tires, don’t make the mistake of driving your bike on smooth roads because it’ll take more effort and slow you down.

Can I Find Replacement Wheels for Old Bikes?

While you can find replacement wheels for old bikes, it’ll be especially difficult if you don’t remember the size. You’ll find it easier to refer to the owner’s manual for further information. If you don’t have that, visit the manufacturer’s website and find your bike’s specs there.

If your bike is older and not in supply anymore, the best trick to find the ISO is to measure outer rim to outer rim (where the rubber meets the rim also known as the bead). You can also measure from axle to outer rim, then double that measurement. If you measured in inches, convert the measurement to millimeters. This will give you the ISO.

If that doesn’t work and you get a strange size, take your bike to the local bike shop and have them look at it. Most employees in bike stores have no problem finding the right wheel size. One look is sometimes all they need to equip you with the right wheel.

Conclusion

Bike wheels come in various sizes, use a range of tires, and fit a certain number of bikes. Finding the right one depends on your size and preferences, as well as the type of bike you have.

If you’re buying a second-hand bike, always check the wheel sizes before you pay the sum. If not, you’ll still have no problem finding the right size wheel for a bike that’ll make it enjoyable and comforting for you to bike down the road.

Related articles:

Are Bike Wheels Interchangeable?

Can You Put Thicker Tires on a Road Bike?

Are Road Bike Wheel Upgrades Worth It?

Sources:

• ModernBike.com: ISO Sizes for Bicycle Tires and Rims
• BIKE Europe: New ISO Standard for Bicycles Implemented
• Wikipedia ISO 5775
• Better By Bicycle: A Simple Guide on the Essentials of Wheels, Rims, and Tyres
• Liveaboutdotcom: What to Consider When Buying Bike Tires
• Montague: Bicycle Wheel Sizes Explained
• We Are Cycling UK: A Guide to Cycle Tyre Sizes
• Wiggle: Mountain Bike Wheels Buying Guide
• Whycycle?: Bike Sizing Advice

When it comes to storing your bike, you need to strike a balance between making the most of the space you have and protecting your bike and the comforts of your home. However, this is easier said than done because there are so many storage options, and what works for one homeowner might not be ideal for everyone.

Here are the 3 best methods to store your bike at home:

1. Store the bike on a floor rack.
2. Mount the bike on a wall.
3. Hoist the bike on a ceiling.

These methods can also be used to store bikes in the winter, but special precautions must be taken to protect your bike. Read for an insightful discussion as I outline the different storage options in each category, when they’re ideal, the necessary purchases, and so much more.

1. Store the Bike on a Floor Rack

Floor racks are the closest option to a kickstand in terms of simplicity. Installing one is as simple as chucking them on the floor, and removing them is equally easy. This makes a floor rack a particularly ideal storage option if you often change your residence and want a storage option that won’t take too much work to move and set up.

And while floor racks are close to a kickstand in terms of simplicity, they’re better at keeping your bike upright. In other words, it’ll take much more effort to topple over a bike held in a floor rack than a kickstand.

Floor racks are also user-friendly. Storing and accessing the bike is easier with a floor rack than any other storage option, making it ideal for homes with kids.

Despite these advantages, floor racks come with their fair share of drawbacks. They take up a significant amount of space on your floor, which can be a deal-breaker if space is an issue in your home.

Additionally, some floor racks can’t store bikes with disc brakes or wheels smaller than 20 in (50.8 cm). And while they’re more stable than kickstands, they don’t compare well with other storage options in this regard.

Floor racks come in two broad categories:

Generic Metal Floor Racks

These are types of rocks commonly found in schools. They’re usually big and designed to hold many bikes simultaneously. That means they’ll take up more space than other types of floor racks, making them an ideal option for use in yards, garages, or other parts of your home where space isn’t an issue.

Metal floor racks come in different types and prices, and the ideal purchase depends on your needs – how many bikes you’re looking to store, whether they have similar wheel sizes, and how much you’re willing to spend. 

If you’re looking for a metal rack to hold different bikes for the whole family, consider the affordable but functional rack such as the Simple Houseware Bike Stand (available on Amazon.com). 

You get a rack that can hold up to five bikes at once. It’s compatible with 12 to 26 in (30.48 to 66.04 cm) bikes, and the wheel holder width is expandable from 2.5 to 3.5 in (6.35 to 8.89 cm), making it a versatile storage option for kids and adult bikes.

The only drawback to this cost-effective storage solution is its durability. The alloy steel construction may be prone to bending, especially if you store your bike in windy outdoors or aren’t gentle with it.

If durability is a priority, consider the Delta Cycle Rack (available on Amazon.com). It comes with industrial-grade steel construction for strength and durability, as well as a powder-coated, sleek-looking surface that fits in most interior decors.

It’s also worth noting that the Delta Cycle Rack is fully adjustable, allowing you to infinitely adjust it for a custom fit on any wheel width size. However, it can only accommodate one bike at a time. 

If you need to store more bikes while still enjoying the Delta’s durability and adjustability, purchase the Delta Rack Connectors (available on Amazon.com). These connectors will join up to five racks.

Parking Rack Stands

The main difference between these and metal racks is that with a parking rack stand, you don’t need to lift your bike to store it. Instead, you roll its wheel onto the front holder, which then tilts and lifts the bike into the rack.

This extra bit of functionality comes in handy when you have a heavy bike. It’s also great for kids and pretty much anyone else who finds it hard to get their bike off the floor. 

It’s also worth mentioning that the bike is more stable with this type of floor storage because the wheel sits deeper inside the rack. This is particularly handy if you store your bike in a spot that’s accessible to kids and pets because it minimizes their chances of tipping over the bike and potentially damaging it or hurting themselves.

Which parking rack stand to buy?

The BIKE HAND Floor Type Parking Rack Stand (available on Amazon.com) would make a solid purchase. It’s reasonably priced, but this is far from its main selling point. That would be its stability.

While many other similar stands have one or two “contact points” (AKA where the stand holds onto the tires), this one has three to provide extra stability. There’s also the fact that the wheel holder is significantly deeper than other stands, further adding to this storage option’s stability.

2. Mount the Bike on a Wall

Mounting your bike on a wall is a great option when your space is too small to accommodate a floor rack. The bike rests against the wall, leaving more floor space for other things like furniture.

Some wall storage options lean against the wall (as opposed to being fixed into the wall), which is great for walls that can’t handle drilling/screwing and in rented apartments where lease agreements prohibit certain wall fixtures. 

And if you’re deeply passionate about biking, a wall mount can be a pretty good way to show off your bike as a work of art. With some wall mounts, you can even use your bike as an indoor space divider!

But as with any other storage option, wall mounts come with a few drawbacks, first on that list being the need for a sturdy wall that can support your bike’s weight or that of several bikes if need be. There’s also the fact that your lease agreement might restrict what you can do to your walls, limiting you to storage options that only lean against the wall. 

And depending on the type of storage you use, wall mounts can be somewhat inconvenient, too, especially when lifting the bike is involved. So if you have a very heavy bike or have kids that will need to stow away their bikes on their own, you’ll need to be careful with the type of wall mount you choose.

Speaking of types, wall bike storages come in different categories. Let’s review each of these in greater detail:

Wall Hooks/Hangers

Wall hooks and hangers are pretty self-explanatory; you install a hook or hanger on your wall and store your bike on it.

This can be an ideal option for those looking for a simple and easy way to store one or two bikes on their wall without spending a lot of money. Using a hook or a hanger to mount your bike on the wall can also be a great way to showcase it as a piece of art and add some personality to your space.

Should you choose this wall storage option, consider the Auwey Wall Mount Bike Hook (available on Amazon.com). It folds onto the wall to save space when not in use and comes with a rubber coating to protect your bike’s paint job from scratches. It’s also noteworthy that a safety locking mechanism is included to prevent accidental release.

Horizontal Bike Stands/Racks

Horizontal bike stands hold your bike parallel to the ground. Some need to be screwed onto the wall, while others are free-standing racks that lean against a wall. 

Many bikers prefer free-standing horizontal racks because they’re easy to set up such as the  Delta Cycle Free Standing Rack (available on Amazon.com). To set this up, you only need to piece it together, lean it against a wall, and you’re all set. 

The great thing about most free-standing bicycle racks is that they’re usually adjustable, allowing the user to configure it to support different sized bikes. So, whether you’re a mountain biker or a BMXer, this bicycle rack could work for you.

Books-and-a-Bike Storage Shelves

Remember when I talked about using your bike as a creative room divider? This is one way to do it. 

A Books-and-a-Bike storage shelf is one of the most innovative ways to complement your interiors while creating storage space for your bike. It’s essentially a shelf with space for your bike and extra storage compartments for other items such as your helmet and shoes. 

This is an ideal storage option for those with limited space, such as a studio apartment. Unfortunately, this is a new concept so this type of storage option isn’t yet available on Amazon. However, you can have them custom-made. For inspiration on what that should look like, check out Post Fossils Shoes Books and a Bike Shelf.

Vertical Wall Racks

Vertical wall racks come in handy when you have limited wall space. Storing a bike using one of these involves lifting the front wheel (picture someone doing a wheelie) and hanging the bike such that its rear part faces downward.

Since they require less space than floor racks and horizontal wall racks, vertical racks are the most efficient way to store many bikes when both wall and floor space is limited. Additionally, vertical wall racks are generally compatible with more wheel sizes than their horizontal counterparts, making them an ideal wall storage option for families. 

It’s also easier to remove and hang a bike on a vertical wall rack because you only need to lift the front wheel (as opposed to lifting the entire bike when dealing with a horizontal wall rack).

On the flip side, bikes stored on vertical wall racks typically stick out into your indoor space. So while using this type of wall rack to store your bike requires less wall space and zero floor space, it does take up more room space than floor and horizontal wall storage options.

Buying a Vertical Wall Rack

If you choose to use a vertical wall rack to store your bike, you’ll want to choose an option that makes lifting easier, especially if you have children that use the rack. Balancing the bike on the rear wheel can be tricky, but some bike racks make it easy for you.

Where to find such a rack?

Check out the Bike Nook Bicycle Stand (available on Amazon.com). With this vertical bike storage option, you only need to get the front wheel in position and then lift the bike so that it stands. 

Here’s a YouTube video demonstration to give you a better idea of how it works:

3. Hoist the Bike on a Ceiling

Rounding up our list of home bike storage options is ceiling storage. This is ideal when you have limited floor, wall, and room space because it allows you to utilize the space above your head as bike storage. This type of storage is perfect for a basement or garage.

Out of all of the three storage options we’ve covered, this is the most space-efficient. It also doesn’t discriminate on bike wheel sizes because the pulley systems and tracks used to hoist the bike on the ceiling usually hold it by its handlebars and seat. This makes it an ideal storage option for most bikers, no matter which type of bike they use.

On the flip side, ceiling racks are more challenging to install. They also require a pretty high ceiling and are next to impossible to use for kids. And even for adult bikers, it takes longer to access and hang the bike, so this isn’t an ideal storage option for bikes you use regularly.

However, the time it takes to hoist the bike is usually a good tradeoff when you consider the amount of space you’ll save.

The Bike Hoist Lift for Garage (available on Amazon.com) ticks this all-important box, can handle up to 45 kg (100 lbs), and can lift bikes up to 3 meters (10 feet) high.

How To Store Your Bike for the Winter

You can always use floor racks, wall mounts, and ceiling racks to store your bike all year round. But when stowing your bike away for the winter, you need a bit of extra preparation to protect your bike from damage. Don’t just set it up and forget about it. Be proactive to ensure that your bike stays in its best condition year round.

Here are the steps y

Here are the steps you need to do before putting away your bike for the coldest time of the year:

1. Clean the entire bike, including the wheel rims, chain, spokes, and frame.
2. Wax the frame and lube up the chain to prevent rust.
3. Apply oil to the derailleurs pivot points.
4. If there are any dings in your bike’s paint job, coat them with nail polish to prevent rust.
5. Lube the seat post and put it back in place.

During winter, here are some tips you’ll want to do to keep your stored bike in shape:

• Keep the bike indoors—storing it outdoors in the elements is practically asking for damage.
• Dust off the bike every month or so.
• Pump and spin the tires every sixty days.
• If your bike has rechargeable batteries, consult the manufacturer’s manual for care tips when the bike is stored for a long time. 

Related article:

How To Store Bike Tires Without Damaging Them

5 Best Bicycle Covers for Storage

Avid bicycle lovers get a lot of use out of their equipment. Bicycles, like any mode of transportation, require regular maintenance. This includes the replacement of brake pads.

Bicycle brake pads do get old and worn down. They should be replaced when they get down to 1 mm of brake compound.

In this article, we will explain brake compound and the durability of bicycle brake pads. We will also explore and compare different types of brake pads available.

How Long Do Bicycle Brake Pads Last?

The longevity of your bike’s brake pads is dependent on the frequency of use, environmental conditions, and maintenance.

The general rule of thumb is that brake pads can last between 500 – 1000 miles. However, it is important to check the condition of your brake pads regularly. For best estimates of how long your brake pads will last, consult with other cyclists on forums such as the one on Roadbike Review’s website.

According to David Arthur at Road.cc, there are many factors besides mileage that impact your brake pads. These include:

• Winter – snow, road salt, and harsh temperatures can impact brake pad durability.
• Excessive braking – braking often due to traffic or terrain causes brake pads to wear down faster.
• Moisture – rain and wet roads or paths can deteriorate brake pads.
• Lack of cleaning – gravel and other debris can get stuck on brake pads and should be cleaned off.
• Low-quality pads – some brake pads are not made of quality material and thus have less durability.
• Terrain – cycling on flat roads or trails will impact the brake pads less than bumpy or hilly terrain. Mountain biking terrain often has the highest impact.
• Rider weight – The brake pads will be affected by rider weight, as heavier riders will take more effort from the brakes to slow the bike.

Of course, riding every day will pose the most significant impact on your brake pads. Bicycling to work or to run errands is a great way to cut down on transportation costs. For those who ride as a means of transportation, it is critical to check on your brake pads at least once a week.

Ideally, you should give them a visual check up every day. This especially is true once you have used them for over a month. There is no realistic or definitive measurement of time for how long brake pads will last. It truly does depend on how often the bike is used and the frequency of brake usage.

Ideally, you should give them a visual check up every day. This especially is true once you have used them for over a month. There is no realistic or definitive measurement of time for how long brake pads will last. It truly does depend on how often the bike is used and the frequency of brake usage.

If you own a bicycle, it is crucial to keep your equipment well maintained. This is both for efficiency and safety. Here are some signs that your brake pads need replacing:

• Squealing sound when braking
• Unresponsive brakes
• The pad will look thinner and worn

When your brake pads have been worn too far down, your bicycle can become unsafe. Once the pads have worn down completely, your brakes are likely to stop working. This is especially dangerous if you are in a situation where you need to brake suddenly, or if you are far from home.

Squealing or other noises coming from the brakes likely mean the brake pads need immediate replacement. Therefore, it is key to not rely on sound to inform you when to replace your brake pads. Instead, you should visually check your pads’ brake compound regularly.

Brake Compound

According to Galfer USA, brake compound is the material on brake pads that faces inward and touches the tire. It can be made up of many different types of materials.

Typically, new brake pads will have around 3-5mm of brake compound on the pad. According to Total Women’s Cycling, once this is worn down to 1 mm, it is time to replace the pads. If you are new to bicycle maintenance, this may be difficult to notice at first. Your first step will need to be determining which type of brake pad you have.

There are two main types of brake pads: rim pads and disc pads. Which kind of pad you need is dependent on what type of brakes your bike has. We will now cover each type in more detail.

Rim vs Disc Brakes

Rim and disc are used to describe both the brake pads and the type of brakes your bicycle uses. While both types have their advantages, there are some important distinctions between the two.

Rim Brakes

Rim brakes apply the pressure used to stop the bicycle to the outside of the rim of the wheel. These types of brakes use calipers and cables. They are also the more traditional of the two.

Below we will cover some pros and cons of rim brakes.

Pros

• They are typically cheaper
• They are lighter and more aerodynamic
• They are easier to repair

Cons

• Decreased performance in rain or wet conditions
• Can damage the tire rim
• More easily damaged from weather and debris

Disc Brakes

Disc brake systems are the newer type. They have become widely popularized for many cyclists. These types of brakes apply pressure to a rotor that is mounted to the hub of the tire.

Disc brakes can be either mechanical or hydraulic. Mechanical will be operated by cables, similar to rim brakes. Hydraulic, comparatively, is operated by fluid.

Here are the pros and cons of disc brakes:

Pros

• They won’t heat or damage the rim
• They work much better in wet weather
• Their power is more easily adjusted

Cons

• They are typically much more expensive
• They are more complicated systems, making them harder to maintain and fix
• They are heavier and have a bulkier aesthetic

Pricing

As we have covered, rim brake systems and pads will typically be less expensive.

On average, rim brake pads range between $10 – $30 per set.

Comparatively, disc brake pads range between $20 – $40 per set.

Which is More Durable

Disc brakes are regarded as more durable overall. They also rely less on friction than rim brakes, meaning the brake pads deteriorate less quickly.

However, rim brakes are still widely used. The durability discrepancy between the two is not so large as to render rim brakes inefficient.

Ultimately, it comes down to personal preferences. Rim brakes are more aesthetically pleasing and easy to maintain, whereas disc brakes are more technologically advanced.

Both types have a few subtypes as well, meaning you can choose what best fits your needs.

Types of Rim Brake Pads

As covered, rim brake pads work with a system of cables that apply pressure to the rim of the bicycle tire.

These systems can be broken down into two main categories: caliper brakes or cantilever brakes.

The biggest difference between these two is the tire size they can fit. Caliper brakes do not open very wide compared to cantilever brakes.

Therefore, cantilever brakes are better is you require a wider tire.

As far as brake pads, there are three common styles to rim brake pads:

• Road
• Threaded Stud
• Smooth Stud

Rim brake pads can also be customized according to what compound material you need. These include:

• Pads made for dry conditions
• Wet weather pads
• Carbon pads, best used if the rims are made of carbon
• Mixed compound for better year-round use

Types of Disc Brake Pads

Choosing a disc brake pad depends on the brake model. The disc must be designed in a specific way to fit specific models.

Therefore, shape and size are typically limited depending on the brake model.

However, you do have a choice of compound material, just like with rim brakes. Below are the primary compounds for disc brake pads.

• Sintered – these are metallic-based pads that are more weather resistant. They tend to be rather noisy but highly durable for changing weather conditions.
• Organic – these are resin-based pads. They are best used in warm, dry conditions. Their durability and efficiency decrease in wet weather or on steep declines..
• Ceramic – ceramic-based pads are currently the most expensive on the market. They are very quiet and weather-resistant but are not recommended for racing.
• Semi-metallic – these pads combine sintered and organic compounds to create a weather-resistant pad that is less noisy than a sintered pad.

Changing Your Brake Pads

As mentioned, changing your brake pads is an essential part of bicycle maintenance.

This can be done either taking your bike to a professional bike shops or by changing them yourself. Replacing brake pads will require you to have specific tools.

For rim brake pads, it will depend on if your pads are road, threaded stud, or smooth stud.

Here are two videos on how to identify your pad type and change rim brake pads:

• How to Replace Brake Pads on a Bike – Rim Brakes by Park Tool
• How To Replace Rim Brake Pads | GCN Tech Basic Road Bike Maintenance by GCN Tech

For disc brake pads, you will most likely need to remove the wheels as well.

Here are two videos on how to change your disc brake pads:

• How To Replace Your Disc Brake Pads by Global Cycling Network
• How to Replace Bicycle Disc Brake Pads by Park Tool

Final Thoughts

Regularly observing your brake pads is essential to keeping your bicycle running smoothly. Be sure to watch for when they become worn down and replace them promptly!

Related articles:

The Pros and Cons of Disc Brakes on A Road Bike

How Often Should Bike Cables Be Replaced?

Four Clear Signs Your Bike Wheels Need Truing

Do Bike Hubs Make A Difference? Here’s the Truth

No bike rider wants to be brought up short when the brake cable fails, so being in the know about what to look for and when equals preventative maintenance so that failure doesn’t happen.Bikes are certainly not complicated machines.  Or at least that’s what we all thought when first learning to ride a bike.  Maintenance wasn’t an issue, but complicated or not, bikes and the mechanisms that make them go do need regular care. 

Cables should be replaced when they are worn causing the bike functionality to react to that wear and tear.  This is every 2,000 to 3,000 miles. Specific damage to the cables or housing is also cause for replacement.

The bike needs to be safe in its working parts that make your biking adventures happen the way you expect for the way you ride.  Being safe includes identifying when your cables need replacing.  Below is information on recognizing why and when cable replacement is needed.

It’s Time for Bike Cable Replacement

Routine frequency of replacing cables varies among cyclists and bike mechanics, usually based on previous experience or range of miles or years.  The most common answers are:

• Every 2,000-3,000 miles
• Once a year
• Every 2-3 years

Bottom line though is when there is evidence of wear, cables are replaced.  That goes for brake cables and shifter cables. Replacing the housing for both brake and shifter cables at the same time either is replaced is recommended to make replacement less complicated down the line.

Cables wear most often because of breakdowns, or microtears, in the cable filaments.  Some of the physical signs of cable wear are:

• Fraying
• Cracks in the cable
• Discolorations

The Factors That Contribute to Bike Cable Replacement

You won’t have a good ride if your bike has cable issues. We all can guess that weather and environmental conditions, as well as road conditions, do affect the life of bike cables. For example, this should be obvious for those living in hot, sun-drenched climates: basically, your bike needs a sunscreen.  Sunlight damage is a factor in cables deteriorating, so store your bike inside.

If it’s not possible to keep your bike inside, having some sort of cover available will protect not only cables, but your paint job.  A cover will also help the buildup of rust due to rain and damp conditions.

A good indication that it’s time to replace cables is performance, it will suffer and you will know it! Some indications include?

• Sluggishness in the brakes
• Poor or jumping shifting
• Reaction time has slowed down when braking, and
• Damage to the cable connections, e.g., hitting a curb or rock,

These are all signs that it’s time to do that periodic check or full-on replacement of the cables.

When It’s Time to Shop for Cables

There are several product names you’ll hear most often when you get ready to replace the bike’s cables and housings. For both brake and shifter cables, you’ll hear and read recommendations for:

• Shimano
• Campagnolo (Campy)
• Jagwire

They each get high marks in all areas important to maintaining high performance, quality, and long wear.

Universal replacement kits are available instead of a separate, specific kit for each type of bike.  For example, mountain bike and road bike or mountain bike, road bike, and gravel bike.  Universal replacement kits may need some tweaking to make them truly universal.

Of course, there are less expensive brands out there.  Preferences and budgets differ.  Consider your investment in your bike and the performance and safety standards you expect when making your purchasing decision.

Do Bike Cables Stretch?

Cables do stretch and that factors into replacement.  Cables are made of either stainless or galvanized steel to withstand the tension of braking and metal will stretch.Shifting and braking are the actions that cause the stretching, so stretching isn’t preventable.

It’s preferable to look for “pre-stretched” in the product info when buying your bike because it would save a lot of time and hassle and cost for the do-it-yourselfers out there or for bike shop repairs.

How Long Do Bike Cables Last?

Bike cables last until performance isn’t what it should be.  How long cables last varies depending on MTB or road bike and conditions your bike is exposed to. It’s not uncommon for mountain bike cables to wear out and be replaced more often than a road bike’s cables.  Pay attention to the bike’s change in performance, do the periodic check, and you’ll get the good performance you expect.

There Are Differences in Bicycle Brakes

If you’re a dedicated cyclist, you will probably have a few different bikes in your backyard shed.  There might be a road bike, a mountain bike, and the latest bike of interest; the gravel bike.  And, each one has a brake cable system to be maintained.

Bikes and the Brakes They Come With

• Road bike:  Most common are rim (caliper) brakes, but disc brakes are moving in.
• Mountain bike:  Disc brakes
• Gravel bike:  Disc brakes

With disc brakes as a possible choice for road bikes, there are points to consider.  For example, disc brakes are more expensive then rim brakes yet need less pressure for braking.  And, disc brakes are heavier than rim brakes but give a faster ride.

The choice for disc brakes is between mechanical and hydraulic.  The choice lies in your preference for the best ride and the easiest maintenance.  The support for hydraulic brakes among riders comes from the fact that cables on the mechanical disc brakes will stretch, but hydraulic fluid won’t.   

Road Bikes

We all know when you’re buying a road bike, you’re buying a bike to get you safely where you want to go on a paved road, not off-road adventure riding.  The brakes commonly used on road bikes are rim or caliper brakes.  It’s true, disc brakes are becoming more popular for use on the road bike, but there are still advantages to the rim breaks, including cheaper than disc brakes and easier to maintain.

Mountain Bikes

The mountain bike is formerly known as the “all terrain” bike. The mountain bike is designed to take on challenging mountain trails with:

• Snow
• Sand
• Mud
• Any other riding surface

Disc brakes are the standard for mountain bikes whether mechanical or hydraulic. They give better braking performance in all weather and road conditions than rim brakes especially on the steep climb and descent of more rugged mountain terrain.

Gravel Bikes

The gravel bike is a spin on the adventure bike of old.  It takes on the rougher gravel backroads but stills does the job of a road bike. Gravel bikes do use disc brakes.  Because disc brakes have been a staple on mountain bikes for many years, they are best for rough biking terrain, such as the graveled areas like wilderness roads and the old farm roads that would be a little hard to maneuver with the standard road bike.

Conclusion

As a bike owner, the time will come when your bike’s cables will need to be replaced.  How often isn’t necessarily a set time in months or years.  The signs will be in how your bike is responding to the demands you put on it and the eventual wear of its parts.  Or, you might decide preventive maintenance is the path for you and set a specific date to replace cables and housing. Scheduling regular checkups can prevent the surprise of a cable snapping.

Other articles you may find interesting:

Do Bike Brake Pads Get Old?

If you enjoy biking, you know that your wheels are vital for a great ride and for bicycle safety. Truing is a matter of tightening the spokes on a bike’s wheels to make them truly round and allowing them to roll straight, without wobble. A good bike mechanic can take care of this for you in about half an hour. You can also learn to true your own wheels. But how can you tell when it’s time to true your wheels?

Four clear signs your bike wheels need truing: Four indications that you need to do this include:

• Rattling sounds when riding
• Constant, rhythmic rubbing
• You notice a vertical deformity
• Your spokes have lost their rigidity

When you’re new to truing, it’s a great idea to have your work checked by someone experienced before rolling out on your newly-trued wheels. Even as a beginner, it will become evident that truing is necessary if your rim is bent. The higher tension in certain spots and lower tension in others will make for an unsteady ride. We’re going to show you how to get a smooth, straight ride in no time!

Four Signs Your Bike Wheels Need Truing

The wheels of your bicycle are a vital element comprising the vehicle. If they falter for whatever reason, you could be involved in a severe accident resulting in serious injuries. It’s a definite hazard to neglect the care of this component.

In saying that, a critical aspect of wheel maintenance includes ‘truing’ which is the process of adjusting the spokes via tightening (or loosening) as required in order to create a straight form for the rim and an overall strong structure. 

For many new to riding, truing may be a novel concept for which they are unable to determine if the wheels are in or out. Some signs can help you sense when your bike needs truing. 

1.  You Hear Rattling Sounds When Riding

Generally, when you ride, there won’t be sounds coming from the wheels or the bike for that matter. If you notice a ‘rattling’ or a ‘humming’ constantly as you’re riding, it could be a few different things, two of which include the chain or the wheels.

In many cases, the spokes are loose for which the ‘nipple’ or threaded nuts at the base of the spokes need tightening through the process of truing. If they are loose, they will rattle because they’re offering literally no strength to the structure of the wheel as if there were spokes there at all.

2.  You Notice a Constant, Rhythmic Rubbing

If you notice a consistent rubbing with the wheels in a rhythmic, annoying sensation, frequently riders tend to believe that the brakes have a part in the issue. But in most cases, it’s actually the wheels themselves. When wheels lose true, the shape of the tire changes, and the rim deforms, causing it to favor the more tense side, leaning in that direction and pulling the bike that way.

You will feel the tire begin to wobble, and the rubbing sound is the wheel brushing against the brake. Correcting the untrue side is the only resolution as it will fix the shape of the wheel.

3. You Notice a Vertical Deformity of a Wheel

A standard wheel deformity shows ‘vertically,’ where a wheel is not perfectly shaped round, causing it to roll shakily in an up and down motion. It has the potential for affecting the rim brakes due to the fact the rising and falling movement of the rim as the tire goes around disallows contact.

To find a vertical deformity, flip the bike over on its seat and spin the wheels. A bike with this condition is not safe for a number of reasons, not only due to the stopping power being decreased but the questionable integrity of the wheel.

4.  Your Spokes Have Lost Their Rigidity

The spokes of a wheel should be solid and strong, not wobbly or sagging. There should be none that you can manipulate with your hand. If any spokes are noticeably sagging, the strength of the wheel is compromised, particularly if you happen to be in a situation where you may be missing a spoke or two.

The reasons for less than secure spokes can be many, but one is a potentially stripped nipple, which results in a disconnection from the rim. The wheel may still be true, but that doesn’t mean that it will remain that way for very long. Neglect could result in having to replace the entire wheel.

True Wheels Are Safe Wheels

A bicycle is comparable to any vehicle driving on the road. It is your responsibility to follow all the same laws of the road and safety precautions. So, you must engage in proper care and regular maintenance to ensure your safety when riding, especially if you tend to operate the bike in dense traffic.

What Does It Mean To ‘True’ a Bike’s Wheel

When pedaling a bicycle, the wheels are responsible for moving you forward on whatever surface you’re riding on. Wheels that are adequately shaped in a round, straight form will add to the ideal performance and smoothest ride.

Truing consists of adjusting the tension of the spokes by either loosening or tightening the ‘nipple’ which is a threaded nut located at the end of the spoke.

The wheel’s ability to spin straight can be significantly affected by the spoke. Spokes may need adjustments on the rim to ensure the wheel is trued. Not all wheels are fitted with spoke. Bicycles that offer a big disc or blades will require a replacement if the wheel is out of whack.

The wheels carry a great deal of responsibility when riding, one of which is assisting the braking process as a means of slowing the vehicle down. If the wheel were to wobble for any reason in a side-to-side movement when in motion, or if it were ‘out of true,’ there could be an issue with slowing the bike down when braking.

‘Truing’ needs to be done periodically to ensure that the rim remains straight when it spins in between the brake pads. For bikes that are not ‘true,’ adjusting the brake pads can prove to be a challenge.

How Often Should Bike Wheels Be Trued?

How frequent you have to true your wheels depends on the quality of your wheel.

• If you have a higher quality wheel, you should only need to true them once following approximately 200 miles (ca. 322 km) of riding regardless of the weight of the rider or amount of abuse the wheels encounter.
• For lesser quality wheels, it’s a good idea to continue to check them every few months for safety purposes. You should likely true them two times in their lifespan, once after approximately 50 miles (ca. 80 km) of use, and then the recommendation is 1000 more.

These are standard recommendations for any person’s body type, any bike wheel size or brand, and regardless of the amount of harsh abuse or road conditions. The only time this may change is if you run over something that jars your wheel or you are engaged in an accident. In those cases, you would have to check immediately to see if your wheel needs fixing.

Why It’s Worth It to Go to a Pro

One variable that affects how often you need to true your wheels is how well the job was done in the first place. All other factors equal, how long your wheels stay true may depend on who does the service, how much experience, and how well the service is performed. 

Having a reputable, reliable, experienced individual does the truing, you can expect high-quality tires to go up to 10,000 miles (ca. 16,093 km) for front wheels.

Keep in mind that it is recommended for the wheels to have proper pre-stressing of the spokes along with the truing when you initially buy them for added stability. If you feel confident that you can handle truing without the need to take it to an expert, make sure to view tutorials or watch someone who is experienced in doing it efficiently.

DIY Truing

For biking enthusiasts, their bicycle is something that they treasure and care for as they would with any automobile engaging in regular tune-ups and proper maintenance when anything goes wrong.

Every component on a bike determines what type of experience the rider is going to have from the seat to the handlebars and, most importantly, the wheels. If anything were to go wrong with the wheels, it has the highest potential for causing a hazard resulting in an accident and potential for injuries.

For this reason, the wheels receive a significant amount of attention from the tire itself to the rim and the spokes. 

• Spokes: The spokes are a prominent element of the wheel. When they come out of true, they cause a wide range of difficulties for the wheel resulting in a bad ride. It makes the process of truing one of the most important of the maintenance techniques for a bike, but one, if done correctly, that only needs doing once. It is also one that many riders can do as a DIY project if they take the time to learn the skills to do it the right way.
• Key: Truing involves using a ‘key’ that can be purchased at specialty bike shops. This key should always accompany the enthusiast during trips for situations that may arise on their journey. There are a variety of different key sizes, so it’s essential to know which one is appropriate for your particular bike. 
• Stand: Purchasing a stand for the process can make it much more straightforward, but these can to be costly and bulky. Only worry about getting a stand if you regularly engage in repairing bikes or may build bike wheels from the ground up.

Even if you are an enthusiast, truing is only something that you’ll do once, maybe twice, depending on the number of times you need to replace your bike or your wheels. Investing in a stand would make more sense if you are an avid rider or own a bike shop.

Truing is about precision and requires a great deal of practice to get the technique down. To get your wheel and the spokes in ‘balance,’ it requires skill and patience in the process.

When you’re working on one side of the rim tightening a spoke there, it is going to pull to that side. If you loosen one, it’s going to do the opposite. You should not over-tighten one side and under-tighten the other in an effort to create the ideal shape for the wheel. The idea is to produce even tension throughout each spoke. 

Cyclists agree that truing is an ‘art’ that takes time to develop. Before you start on a prized possession, you should practice on a piece that has no meaning. And if you don’t feel confident, go to a shop.

Why Wheels Become Untrue

In many instances, when you take a bike to a workshop to find the wheels have become untrue, sometimes, the theories as to why this happened will often be placed on all the wrong reasons.

Frequently there will be accusations of having hit a pothole. Or perhaps there will be the suggestion that the tires you have are much too light, and you need to consider much more durable ones. Some unnecessarily blame an out of whack wheel on the weight of the rider. None of these things will genuinely be the reason for the wheel coming out of alignment.

It’s All in the Spokes

Metal wires deemed spokes connect the hub to the rim of a wheel on a bicycle that is designed in such a way that it remains lightweight. The spokes themselves, on their own, are not of sturdy material and could easily be bent. But when you apply tension to them, they develop immense strength for which it would take incredible pressure to snap. 

As the wheel goes around, which is its sole purpose in making the bicycle move, the spokes experience the loads both cyclic and off, and there is compression at the bottom and under tension at the top. When the tension becomes too low at the point where they are on the bottom, slack develops and potential for them to break free from the nipple resulting in further loss of tension.

When spokes have this loss of tension, this affects the integrity of the wheel. The wheel is knocked out of alignment, causing a need for the spokes to be put back in true. A majority of issues with a wheel becoming untrue is due to the tension of the spokes.

The Danger Of Riding On Untrue Wheels

Safety is the ultimate priority when riding on a bicycle. It’s why you wear the proper gear, including the helmet, why you follow the laws of the road, why you have your bike go through tune-ups and regular maintenance. You’re in danger of serious injury from crashing on a bicycle as compared to other automobiles. So, knowingly riding on a bike that is of an inadequate condition is not wise. 

There may be a situation arise where you find that your bike has become untrue, though, and you must ride it in order to return home. And without a key or a means to fix it, you may have no alternative. Is it safe to do so?

The rule of thumb here is to consider the reason why the wheels are untrue to determine whether riding on the wheel it will pose any type of danger. There is potential for the rim to collapse based on missing spokes weakness or spoke weakness, which could be the result of unequal tension. 

For a bike with rim brakes, the wheel can ultimately be affected, causing it to move from side-to-side, which may end up loosening it from the hub. Hub nuts coming loose are noted as extremely dangerous. This is a situation that needs immediate attention. You don’t want to continue riding on this wheel.

Summary

As a whole, the concept of truing a bicycle is something that a genuine bike enthusiast would surely understand and ensure takes place upon the purchase of a new bike before they begin to ride. A novice is not going to be aware of the importance that spokes play as a safety feature on a bicycle.

For some who have ridden bikes for many years, the spokes may have really never been given a second thought. Understanding the importance spokes on a bike play and the fact that truing only takes one application, maybe two, to maintain the integrity of your bike’s wheels and, therefore, your safety, it is a no-brainer. It’s imperative if you’re going to participate in any kind of sport that you take the time to understand every aspect thoroughly from the equipment on. It could take just one incident to have genuinely serious consequences.

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Do Bike Hubs Make A Difference? Here’s the Truth

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Hubs connect your chain to your wheels and are an essential part of any bicycle, but how much of a difference do they really make for the overall performance? There are two hubs on every bike, and they range in price depending on the brand and the level of performance. You can save a bunch of money going with cheap hubs, but what difference will that make for your bike?

The purpose of this guide is to dispel all the myths surrounding bike hubs and to help you sort through all the salesman talk and find out what you need to know to ride again.

Do bike hubs make a difference? Hubs make a huge difference when it comes to the performance of the bicycle. The hubs create the connection between the wheels and the frame of the bike, meaning that faster hubs make for a faster bike. If the bike’s hubs contain excess debris within the races that hold the ball-bearings, the bike will ride slowly. For a bike to ride with optimal performance, the hubs must be working perfectly.

The hubs are what connects your wheels to your bike frame, so they clearly play a very important part in the operation of the bike. But what do they really do? And how much does the speed and performance of your bike really depend upon the hubs?

What Does A Hub Do On Your Bike?

The hub is the center of the wheel on your bicycle. There is one hub per wheel. Hubs can vary slightly depending on the type of bike you ride, but they typically consist of the same components.

Front Hub

The front hub, as its name suggests, sits at the front of your bike. The front hub is typically much simpler than the rear hub because it does not house a chain, and therefore does not carry power. Your front hub is at the center of the wheel that steers, not the wheel that powers your bike.

Like any bicycle hub, the front hub contains ball-bearings that allow it to spin freely and go as fast as possible with minimal resistance. The ball-bearings are contained within a housing that allows for disassembly and replacement of the ball-bearings. The ball-bearings are accessible either via lock nuts or via cartridge type bearings that fit together in a single unit.

Hubs come with raised lips at either end, called flanges, which are drilled with holes to fasten the spokes. The number of holes on your hubs will dictate the number of spokes and will differ depending on the type of bike you ride.

Front hubs are often fitted with disc-brake mounts so that brakes can be installed. Not all bikes feature brakes on both the front and back of the wheels, but many road bikes are fitted with disc-brake mounts. Front hubs do not do as much work as their rear counterparts because they only handle the steering, but they are an essential component of each and every bicycle.

Rear Hub

The rear hub tends to be a more involved piece of technology because they handle the power of the bicycle. On a fixed-gear bike, the power only comes from how hard the cyclist pedals. But on a multi-gear bicycle, the rear hub will also handle the transmission of the bicycle. That is to say, the gearbox that operates the speed and torque is balanced between the cyclist and the wheel.

Geared bikes feature a freewheel that is attached to the rear hub that allows for the changing of speeds. Inside the rear hub is something called a ratchet-and-pawl mechanism. This mechanism is a toothed gear that allows the cyclist to switch between the freewheel when coasting, and to engage the transmission when needed. For this reason, rear hubs are far more complex than their front counterparts.

The number of teeth on the ratchet in your rear hub will determine the type of riding you will be able to do. BMX riders and those who want more torque will often have fewer and larger teeth on their ratchets, while road cyclists will often have more teeth for quicker and more seamless gear-changes.

The rear hub is a crucial element to any bicycle, regardless of whether it’s on a BMX bike or a road-going bike. All the power you generate must go through the rear hub, therefore making it one of the most important elements on your bike. You can’t ride how you want if your rear hub is not working perfectly.

Do Hubs Make Your Bike Go Faster?

Your wheels connect to your bike through the hubs. A faster bike means faster spinning wheels, and therefore faster spinning hubs. Hubs connect to the axles of a bicycle and spin as quickly as the cyclist can pedal — under the right conditions. If the ball-bearings in your hubs are creating excess drag, the wheels will not turn as quickly, and your bike will not move as quickly. In a roundabout sense, then, the right hubs will certainly make your bike go faster. In a more direct sense, the wrong hubs will make your bike slower.

Not every bike is built for speed, of course, but many are built solely for speed. Let’s say you’re riding a road bike. You want to make sure that you are able to put in the minimal amount of effort in order to spin your wheels as quickly as possible. There are several areas on your bicycle where power could be lost:

• The pedal mechanism
• The chain
• The transmission
• And of course, the front and rear hubs.

Your power goes from your pedals to your chain to your rear hub, but that doesn’t mean your front hub might not be introducing excess drag into the equation. A bicycle is a machine, and every piece must be properly oiled for it to work perfectly.

As for the rear hub, this is where most would think that all the speed is gained or lost. This is actually not true! The hubs are crucial for the transfer of speed and power between the wheels and the bicycle, but the amount of drag that can be exerted on the bike is minimal in the long run. That isn’t to say that having a great set of hubs isn’t crucial for having a quick and reliable bicycle, but it does mean that the hubs don’t lose as much power as one might think.

The amount of drag that the hubs will create is minimal in the grand scheme of things. Take the example of a road bike once again. Between all the different areas in which a road bike can gain or lose power, the ball-bearings in the hubs are actually quite low down on the list. Furthermore, you will almost always be able to tell when your hubs are dragging you down by simply turning the bike over and spinning the wheels. If they move freely with minimal drag, your speed problem is likely coming from elsewhere on your bike.

One factor often not even considered with bicycle hubs is the weight. Most would think that how quickly a hub will allow the wheels to spin is the only factor in how fast they can go. Not true! The right hubs can save your road bike valuable weight — especially in a long-distance ride.

Types of Bike Hubs

There are several different types of hubs that are often determined by the type of bike you own. However, there are many other factors to consider and it is not uncommon to pair a different type of bike with a different type of hub.

The most common types of bike hubs are:

• MTB
• Road
• BMX

MTB

• MTB hubs are for mountain bikes. MTB hubs are typically made out of lightweight aluminum. On higher end models, MTB hubs are often made out of carbon fiber in order to offer the lightest weight coupled with the strongest material. MTB bikes are typically put through the ringer and must account for a great deal of force exerted on them.

• For higher performance MTB hubs, the freewheel will often be made out of stainless steel in order to ensure maximum durability. This durability is especially needed with jumping bikes, given the need to accommodate hard landings. MTB hubs are perfect for cyclists who need extra durability.

Road

• Road hubs will often come with fewer spoke holes than their MTB and BMX counterparts. These hubs will often feature room for 24 spokes, as opposed to 32 or 36. As with every component on a road bike, weight counts! Even several grams could make a huge difference when you’re on the 50th mile of your ride.

• Like some MTB bikes, road hubs will sometimes feature a mount for disc brakes on the front hub. This allows for two brakes to be placed on the bike — one at the front and one at the back. Road hubs are perfect for cyclists who need as light a ride as possible, and who require fewer spokes for their wheels.

BMX

• BMX hubs typically come in three different types depending on the type of riding done by the cyclist.

• Cassette hubs offer minimal weight because of their simple construction. These types of hubs can feature sprockets as few as 8 teeth in their construction. This offers incredible weight-saving for BMX riders, and also allows for superior torque control.

• Freewheel hubs function similarly to normal hubs offered on a wide range of vehicles. Because the freewheel is housed externally, as opposed to the internal wheel in a cassette hub, there is a need for more teeth on the sprocket, and therefore more weight.

• Freecoaster hubs use an internal clutch system that enables the bicycle to roll backwards without the need to pedal backwards or change gears.

What Are the Best Hubs?

MTB

DT Swiss DT350 – The DT350 comes in rear as well as front hubs. This is by no means the cheapest rear hub on the market, but it is easily the best. This product is manufactured in Switzerland, and the quality control could not be better.

The DT350 weighs in at 3.52 ounces, so it won’t weigh you down on any trail, no matter how long of a ride you’re planning! Front hubs are also available, but the DT350 is a specialty made rear hub for delivering incredible power to your wheels. This will be the best rear hub you ever own.

Road

White Industries T11 – These hubs come in either front or rear, or in a set of both. Not only are they available in a range of sizes and colors, they are incredibly lightweight and reliable. Your bike will look fantastic and it will ride even better.

These are some of the lightest weight hubs on the market, weighing in at just 3.24 ounces for the front hub. That’s incredibly light. They are made out of ultra lightweight aluminum, with a titanium flywheel for increased durability and lightness. You cannot possibly find a better made road hub than the T11. These hubs are highly recommended!

BMX

Odyssey Clutch V2 – This is quite possibly the highest performing and most durable BMX rear hub on the market. There are scores of videos online showcasing what these things can do. If you’re a BMX’er, you want the Odyssey Clutch V2. It’s that great!

This is one of the beefier products on the market, weighing in at 22 ounces for the rear hub. But you won’t notice the weight, you will only notice the performance and the durability! The product comes with an optional hub guard that is fully removable, on the off chance you find yourself wanting to reduce the weight. But to put it simply, the Odyssey performs perfectly as-is!

Servicing Your Hubs

To determine whether or not you need to clean your hubs, first turn your bike upside down, with the seat and handlebars balancing the weight on the ground. Spin your front wheel — if there is excessive resistance it’s time to give your hubs a service.

Cup and Cone Hubs

Start by collecting your tools and supplies. To service your cup and cone, or press-fitted hubs, you will need:

• Cone wrenches (usually 15mm and 17mm)
• Grease
• Degreaser
• A magnetic hex screwdriver
• Bike cassette removal tool with chainwhip
• Adjustable wrench
• Paper towels

Step 1

First, we need to remove the cassette from the freehub body. Start by using a cone wrench to hold the cone in place, then use another wrench to unscrew the nut. You can then remove the lock nut and spacer(s) by hand — paying attention to the order in which they are assembled. Repeat the same steps to unscrew the other side of the cone, then separate the two ends to expose your ball-bearings.

Step 2

Using a magnetic screwdriver, remove the ball-bearings from the race in which they are contained.

Clean your ball-bearings with degreaser and a paper towel. Be sure to remove any traces of grease and gunk. Examine your bearings and other components carefully to make sure that they are not in need of replacement. There is no point cleaning bearings that are simply too worn out to be used.

Step 3

Replace your ball-bearings and reattach the two halves of the hub. Make sure that hub is able to spin properly — add any necessary grease in order to accomplish this end, then re-tighten the hub the same way that you loosened it up.

Step 4

Refit the hub to the axle of the bike and test it out! The wheels should spin much more easily now that you’ve eliminated any resistance and re-oiled your machine.

Cartridge Bearing Hubs

The necessary tools are:

• Cone wrenches (13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm)
• Open-ended 15mm wrench
• 5mm allen keys
• Solid rear axle
• Nylon Mallet
• Small screwdriver
• Bearing grease

Step 1

Remove the end of your hub with an allen key. This might take some elbow-grease as the halves are often tightly stuck together.

Make sure to pay attention to the order of the spacers and O-rings that are contained within the halves for reassembly.

Step 2

Getting the ball-bearings out of your hub will take some more elbow-grease. A nylon mallet is recommended for this task as a rubber mallet will likely not generate enough force for the task.

Step 3

Clean the entire hub with degreaser and paper towels until it is completely free from grease and grime. You will then need to inspect the hub and flanges to determine whether or not any significant corrosion has occurred.

Step 4

Spread a coating of grease on the outside and the inside of the:

• Bearings
• Hub
• Axle

Refit the bearings into the hub race, then refit the halves of the hub. Make sure that the hub is able to spin freely before tightening.

You are now ready to refit the hub to the axel and press-fit the halves back together with a mallet. Make sure that the pieces are properly aligned as you can easily create ridges in the metal that will prevent a proper seal in the future.

The Difference

There are many different ways to increase the overall performance of your bike, but upgrading your hubs is a great place to start. Your hubs are where your wheels meet your bike, so it’s harder to think of a better place to begin your upgrades than with the hubs.

Even if you cannot afford to pay for a new set of hubs, taking a look at the ball-bearings is a surefire way to begin your journey towards the fastest and most reliable ride that you can get.

In many ways, a bicycle is the ultimate machine. It takes the power from a cyclist pedaling and transforms it into something much more. This power comes from you and transfers to the wheels. What’s at the center of your wheels? Your hubs! They are immeasurably important for the success of your ride and the functioning of your machine. Hubs make all the difference!

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